After 7 strong hours of sleep I woke up feeling refreshed but still not all there mentally. Another day in paradise. The sun was shining and I was determined to get into the Pacific Ocean.
I went to my favorite spot of last year looking for massive waves and a relaxing time on the soft sand of the normally not too populated Curl Curl Beach. What I got instead was a beach that was packed to the gills with a tiny tikes surf life saving competition. In other words there was a 100 or so kids dressed in funny hats and outfits going in the water, out of the water, around flags, and doing up downs on the beach. If that was not enough, when I waded through the crowds of Aussie parents and finally made it to an area that looked like you could swim, I found that there was a surf club long boarding competition going on. Guess Sunday is no longer the day of rest, but the day of competition?!?!?!
So Curl Curl was a huge miss. The beach that I was so fond of last year and that I had desired to return to so that I could return to all of those memories was packed and wouldn’t even allow me into the water. What to do? Down the road was Freshwater beach. Went there once before last year and it was crowded and easy to tell why it was called a ‘kiddie’ beach with it being set back from the heads much further back than Queenscliff beach to the south or Curl Curl to the north causing the breakers to die off pretty well by the time they could reach Freshwater.
It didn’t matter I had a date of destiny with the Pacific Ocean, so off to Freshie it was. When I made the decent down the rocks and around the surf pool (a pool that is entirely filled with water from waves during the high tide and then is used to swim laps when the tide goes back out) I saw that the beach was not as crowded as it should have been. Put the towel down and noticed a pretty decent swell, but it was pretty far out. Read my Douglas Copeland book - thanks to SG - lying in the sun effortlessly working on my tan and warming my body getting ready to plunge into the clear baby blue of the Pacific.
Well after 20 minutes or so the time had come to get back into the Ocean that I love and have only known so briefly ever since that trip to Costa Rica when I was 22. I was pumped and got in like a shorter whiter version of David Hasselhoff circa 1992. The swell was kicking but it was a way out. I knew I had to get through 2 sets of breakers if I wanted to ride some of those gorgeous rolling blue waves. Took me a while to get the 150-200 yards out there and to motor through, or rather under the surf that was along the way, but my effort and persistence would pay off.
It didn’t pay off immediately. That doesn’t happen in the real world. You can’t go through a series of trials, tough times, or adversity and come out of it all and land right into what you were looking for. That only happens in rom coms. Anyway after patiently treading water for over 15 minutes (note: great way to keep your heart rate sky high) waiting for a great wave soaking in the surreal scenery I was rewarded with the calm natural fluid formation of a towering wave that screamed “hey, Steve here I come!”
I mean this wave was beautiful. You could see through it. It towered over you and made you feel pathetic. But this wave was also gentle. So without hesitation I turned and started paddling, not ferociously but with ease feeling the wave lift me and doing most of the work for me. Once on the top of the wave I had a perfect view of the whole shoreline and it was populated with nothing but blue sky, bright speckles of flashy boardshorts, umbrellas, bikinis, and beach towels. I was airborne. It was a calm ride that took me all the way in. Well nearly. Far enough to be totally satisfied.
The ride made me realize once again how I can not force things in life. I had one image in my head that I thought was correct. It wasn’t. Then by being patient, waiting, and trusting I was given what I desired. It makes sense. So often I try to force things or have an idea that I hold to be totally true and its not. Or I think there is only one way in a certain situation only to find out that there are many more ways, and sometimes even better ways.
I am thankful for that wave. Not only for the thrill and for the ride, but for making me realize the massive importance of my faith, my trust, and my patients.
